Jewel ornamented with stones



May 31, 1938. s. (DITCHARLES) ARPELS M 2,119,067

JEWEL ORNAMENTED WITH STONES Filed May 1, 1936 Patented May 31, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE JEWEL ORNAMENTED WITH STONES Application May 1, 1936, Serial No. 77,423 In France February 13, 1936 3 Claims.

Systems for fitting and mounting precious stones are known in which the stones are pro-- vided with suitable grooves adapted to engage with slideways on a mounting base in such manner that their girdles adjoin one another. This system permits of obtaining an invisible mounting.

Such a system is, for instance described in French Patent No. 764,966, of December 2, 1933.

However, systems of this kind are suitable only for the mounting of stones the dimensions of which are identical or vary constantly in one direction from one end of the slideway toward the other end. On the other hand, even with stones having similar dimensions, 'this arrangement does not permit of obtaining patterns of complicated shape substantially different from a rectangle, a trapezium, a cylinder, or a cone In particular, it does not permit of easily arranging the stones in complicated curve lines or on twisted surfaces.

The object of the present invention is to provide a system of mounting which permits of producing a pattern of any desired shape or arrangement in which the dimensions of the stones do not always vary in the same direction and which may constitute a surface as complicated as it is desired.

The essential feature of the present invention consists in providing, in the ornamental jewel design, a removable part, which will be hereinafter called a locking key or wedge, devised in such manner that when it is removed from its assembled position the stones can easily be fitted in the remainder of the jewel, either by causing them to slide in grooves, or by taking advantage of the elasticity of the metallic parts of the mounting, after which the key is replaced into position and positively prevents the stones already fitted from leaving the mounting.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the visible surface of the key is itself provided with stones arranged in such manner that, once the key is in position, the stones it carries contribute to the ornamental aspect of the whole and, therefore, said key is not visible.

It should be well understood that the application of the principle above set forth, according to the invention, depends upon the specific conditions to be complied with in every case.

Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be hereinafter described, with reference to the accompanying drawing, given merely by way of example, and in which:

Figs. 1 and 2 are a front view and a side view,

respectively, of a first embodiment of the invention, with the key in position;

Fig. 3 is a cross section of the ring shown by Fig. 4 taken on section line III-III;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing the mounting with the locking key removed, and without the stones inserted in their slideways;

Fig. 5 is a separate sectional view diagrammatically showing the key;

;Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 4, but with the stones in position;

Fig. '7 is a plan view of another embodiment of the invention;

Fig. 8 is a similar view of a modification;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the key of the jewel shown by Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a cross sectional view of the locking key shown by Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. 9, but with the stones in position in the key; the jewel being also visible on this figure.

The first example relates to a ring including a plain portion I, for instance of metal, carrying an ornamental pattern of stones 2, disposed in such manner that the whole forms a block of solid appearance.

As is apparent in the drawing, the ornamented portion of the jewel has no inlet face through which the stones could be inserted successively in position by sliding them in slideways.

On the contrary, according to the invention, the stones can be inserted into position in the following manner: The jewel is made as shown by Fig. 4, that is to say the portion intended to carry the stones includes a plurality of slideways formed by fiat bands 4 extending substantially parallel to and spaced from the surface of the base, and the base. is cut away at 5, so as to form a gap having oblique sides. Into this gap can be fitted in a very precise. manner a kind of wedge 6, which constitutes the key.

On the other hand, in the example, the size of the stones located in plane A B (Fig. 1) is greater than that of the stones located on either side of this plane. Accordingly, the intervals between bands 4 are chosen in such manner that they are larger close to the edges of gap 5 than in portions 1 where said bands are joined to portion I.

The section of bands 4 is clearly visible in Fig. 3 of the drawing.

In order to fit the stones in position, wedge or key 6 is removed. The stones are successively inserted in the slideways between the bands 4 on either side of I gap 5, the smaller stone being instone setting. For this purpose, it sufilces to make use of a wedge-shaped; key, as shown by Fig. 5, consisting of a metal sheet 8, curved in V-shaped fashion and the edges of which are pro vided with flanges as indicated by numeral 9. Suitably cut stones are inserted between these flanges, either by sliding them longitudinally orby springing the flanges 9 apart owing to the elas-. ticity of sides 8. Key 6 shall then have.the external aspect shown by Fig. 6. The stones are so'arranged and dimensioned that, once the key is restored into position, the whole-form's a regular, setting in which the stones carriedby the key =.d not distinguish from those carried by the ffixed part ofthe ring. It VViHTbG impossible for a person, not an initiate, to know how the stones have been assembled and fixed. The second example consists of an ornamental design representing one'orseve'ral leaves. In this case, the lines'that. separate'from one another the stones of vthe jewel are of'compli'cated curvature. Furthermore '(as :this' can'nQt 'Zbe clearly seen on the drawing) thesurfaces: have curvatures which vary widely from one. point to another, as :well fromv the point of :view of the radius of curvature as from that of the direction of the curvature. "Complicated: surfaces'ofi this kind could not be fitted withst'o'nes merely by means of slideways along which the stones are slipped, by'starting fr'omrthe lateral edge of the jewel. I According to the present invention, one or several groups of juxtaposedstones arechosen'in such manner'that once this group or these groups has, or have, been removed another area of the jewel can easily be fitted, by successively, placing the stones in suitable directions on slideways providedfor this purpose. These removable groups of stones shall "be chosen in such'manner as to form a single element forminga key. Therefore, it'will sufiice to'remove' the key for being able to easily fit the remainder of the jewel with stones. Then the key is restored into position, locking the other stones.

The shape of the key shall of course vary according to whether iti's desired to fitthe jewel with stones by causing th'emto slide along slideways or by making use, eventually, of. the elasticity of the various bandsof metal between them when'the stones are set.

Fig. '7 shows, in plan view, a jewel consisting of a base or support," in the form of a tree leaf, covered with aplurality ofstones arranged in adjoining relationship to one another, soas'to form' a kindof pavements The lower part of Fig. '7 shows the supporter base with the stones set in position, whereas the'upper part of the same figure, in which the stones are absent, shows the small metal bands, such as I3, betweenwhich said storiesare to beinserted. The'key I I is disposed, in this case, in such manner a's to permit 'of fitting mostof thestones through the elas ticity of the various transverse bands I3; I

' Theskeyconsistsof am'ar'ginalporti'onj I: All the metal bands, with thdexception'of bands I2 and I4, are sufficiently elastic for permitting of setting the stones in position merely through their elasticity.

Bands I2 and I4, which are adjacent to key I I, are not flexible. The stones are inserted in position between the various bands I3 by making use of the elasticity of these bands, once key II hasbeen removed, and the stones corresponding to bands I2 and I4 are brought into position by sliding them laterally on either side of the opening produced by the removal of key II until these rows engage the end locking surfaces III. This being done, key II, itself fitted with its stone's; is,,insertedin' position and thus locks all the stones in the respective positions they now occupy. This is due to the fact that the stones of-bands I2 and I4 can no longer slide therealong and all the other rows, to wit, those between bands I3, are also looked.

In Figs; 8 to 11, I have shown another embodiment-whioh'also relates to the case of a leafshaped jewel carryingfa pavement of precious stones. In this embodiment, there is provided, on either side of the central rib of the leaf, a pair of parts I5, parellel to said rib, and which can be removed so as to leave empty spaces I6, I6. The various bands I! between which the-stones are caused'to slide for inserting them in position are, in this case, substantially at right angles to the ceritralrib ofithe'leaf. Therefore, after having-removed keys I5, the stones are successively insertedby causing them to slide between ba'nds I'I; Once this operation has been completed, keys I5; previously fitted with their stones, are inserted in the corresponding empty spaces I6; I6", and'they'lock all the stones in position. The-keys are fixed in position through any suitable means, for instance bysoldering.

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the'key,wi thout its stones.-

Fig. 10 shows the same key; in transverse sectional view.

Fig. ll shows the key, fitted with its stones, ready to be inserted'in position, thisfigure also showing the leaf ready to'receive the keys.

Like thekey 6 shown by Fig. 5, key I5 consists of a' gutter-shaped thin metal envelope, provided with two inwardly extending flanges 9 which serve to'keep the stones in'position'. These stones may be fitted in position either by slipping them from the end of gutter-shaped element I5, or by making use of theielasticity' of the walls of said element. In a general manner; while I have, in the above description, disclosed what I deem. to be practical and efficient" embodiments of the present invention, it should be well understood that- I 'do not wish to be limited theretoas there might be changes made in the arrangement, disposition and form of the parts without departing from the principle of the present invention as comprehended within the scope of the appended claims. 7

What Iclaim is:

1. A jewel or the like which comprises, in combination, a support, substantially parallel elastic 'bandsbarried-by said support, precious stones adapted to fit between said bands and to. be removably held therebetween owing to the elasticity of said bands and a locking piece adapted to fit in said support so as to lock the whole of the bands and the stones present between said bands, whereby said bands can no longer be deformed so as to permit of the stones escaping from between them.

2. A jewel or the like which comprises, in combination, a support, a plurality of substantially parallel rigid bands, stones adapted to fit between said bands, said support being provided with an opening so that the stones can be slipped between said bands from the edges of said opening, and a locking piece fitting exactly in said opening, so as tolock all the stones between said bands.

3. A jewel or the like comprising in combination a support, bands extending substantially parallel to each other placed on said support and spaced apart laterally, providing slideways to engage precious stones; a stop surface at the one end of each of said slideways; rows of precious stones in said slideways engaged by said bands and abutting said stop surfaces, said rows being held against movement by said bands and said stop surfaces in all but one direction which is parallel tothe surface of the support; and a looking member fixed on said support so as to lock the stones in the direction in which they are not held by said bands and stop surfaces.

SALOMON nrr CHARLES ARPELS. 

